With wild mushrooms growing in such abundance in Sweden it is no surprise that mushroom soup is an absolute classic in Swedish cuisine. It can be dressed up to make a very impressive starter or, with some nice bread, it can make a hearty lunch. In the autumn Swedes would normally make this soup with whatever mushrooms they have foraged.

At other times of year, most Swedes would use dried mushrooms, which also make a fantastic soup ideal for a cold winter’s day. John Duxbury

Tips

• Any dried wild mushrooms can be used, but I prefer to use trattkantareller (funnel chanterelles, also called yellowfoots) or karljohan (porcini) because they rehydrate well and they are so full of flavour.

• Although dried mushrooms are often rehydrated with hot water they will be better flavoured if you use water at room temperature even though it takes longer, 30 minutes instead of 15 minutes.

Ingredients

30 g (1¼ oz) dried wild mushrooms

500 ml (2 cups) water

2 tbsp butter

2 red onions, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

500 ml (2 cups) good quality chicken, mushroom or vegetable stock

½ tsp freshly chopped thyme

½ tsp salt

¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper 2 tbsp sherry, optional 90 ml (6 tbsp) whipping cream cream to drizzle, optional parsley, finely chopped

Method

1. Soak the mushrooms in 500 ml (2 cups) of water at room temperature for 30 minutes or 15 minutes in warm if short of time.

2. Pick the mushrooms out of the water and put in a sieve over a bowl to drain. Carefully strain the mushroomy water, through muslin if necessary, and add the strained liquid to the stock. (If using kantareller (girolle) mushrooms, discard the water as it normally has a rather bitter taste. Increase the amount of stock to 1000 ml/4 cups to compensate.)

3. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over a medium heat and add the red onion, garlic and the rehydrated mushrooms. Fry until softened, but not coloured.

4. Remove from the heat, sprinkle over the flour and stir it into the onion and mushroom mixture.

5. Gradually add the stock, stirring carefully after each addition, and then add the thyme, salt and pepper.

6. Bring the soup to a boil and then simmer for 10 minutes.

7. Pour everything into a blender and blend thoroughly. Pour the soup back into the saucepan through a strainer. Reheat without boiling.

8. Add the sherry (optional) and cream. Stir thoroughly, taste and adjust the seasoning.

9. Pour the soup into warm bowls and garnish with the fresh cream and chopped parsley if desired.

Gravadlax with mustard and dill sauce is one of Sweden’s most famous dishes. Over the years it has gradually grown in popularity in the UK so that nearly all supermarkets stock it these days. Nonetheless, homemade gravadlax is so good it is worth making the effort to cure your own. The name literally means “grave salmon” and refers to the medieval practice of curing raw fish by salting it and then burying it in sand or with weights on top to force the salt into the fish.

Swedes will often cure a whole fish. To do this, follow the recipe for each fillet, then sandwich them together, skin-side out, to reform the fish. If you prefer a thicker mustard and dill sauce, something more like mayonnaise, add an egg yolk with the mustard. Unless the fish is really fresh, it must be frozen for at least 24 hours before you begin and then left to thaw in the fridge. British people tend to like it less salty than Swedes. If you think it might be too salty for you, reduce the curing time from 48 to 24 hours.

1 kg (2 lb) fresh salmon, filleted and boned, with skin on 100 g (½ cup) caster (superfine) sugar 75 g (½ cup) sea salt flakes (best to weigh, about 2½ oz) 1 tbsp 100 g (4 oz) white peppercorns, crushed dill, including stalks Mustard and dill sauce 4 tbsp 2 tbsp 1 tbsp Swedish mustard (use 3 tbsp Dijon if you can’t get Swedish) caster (superfine) sugar white vinegar, such distilled malt or white wine vinegar salt and freshly ground black pepper 150 ml (½+ cup) vegetable oil such as sunflower, rapeseed or olive oil 3 tbsp fresh dill, finely chopped - minutes

Method

1. Cut some aluminium foil big enough for wrapping up the salmon.

2. Run your fingers over the salmon to feel for any tiny pin bones. If you find any, remove them with tweezers.

3. Mix together the salt, sugar and crushed white peppercorns. Spread half the mixture over the skin side of the salmon.

4. Take a third of the dill and spread out on the aluminium foil. Place the salmon on this, skin side down.

5. Rub the remaining salt mixture over the salmon flesh.

6. Chop the remaining dill and cover the flesh side of the salmon with it.

7. Wrap the salmon up and place it in a dish. Place another dish on top of the salmon and weigh down using, for instance, a few bottles of water.

8. Place in the fridge for 48 hours, turning the salmon over every 12 hours.

9. To make the sauce, put the mustard, sugar, vinegar, salt and pepper into a food processor and mix for 20 seconds. Then, with the motor running, slowly add the oil in a steady stream. Pour the mixture into a serving dish and add chopped dill. (It is better left for a day or so to mature.)

10. When the salmon is cured, unwrap it and drain off the salty, sticky liquid and discard it. Scrape off most of herbs. Slice at an angle of 45°, pulling each slice away from the skin. Serve with the mustard and dill sauce, rye bread and, if desired, some crème fraîche and black lumpfish caviar.

11. Wrap any unused gravadlax in cling film (food wrap) and store in the fridge. Use within a week.

Flour – you need almond flour to make this mandelkaka recipe.Sugar – regular granulated white sugar is excellent for making this almond cake.Eggs – medium-sized (63 to 73 grams per piece) and at room temperature.Butter – at room temperature.Almonds – blanched almond flakes for topping your mandelkaka.Salt – just use your favorite brand.

Start by preheating your oven to 180°C (350°F).

Grease a 9-inch cake pan with butter, lightly dust it with breadcrumbs, and then set it aside.Combine butter and sugar in a large mixing bowl.

Mix until it becomes creamy.Add the eggs one at a time — continuing to mix in between each addition.

Add the almond flour and salt.

Mix to combine everything thoroughly.Transfer your Swedish almond cake batter to the greased pan.

Use an angled spatula to smoothen the top.

Sprinkle the almond slices evenly.

Place in the oven for thirty-five to forty minutes or until it’s golden on top, and a toothpick comes out clean when inserted.

Remove the pan from the oven and set aside to cool.

Transfer your mandelkaka to a serving plate and enjoy!

A classic recipe for Swedish pickled herring called glasmastarsill, or glassblower's herring. Herring, sardines, smelt or whitefish can all be pickled this way

▢1/4 cup kosher salt ▢5 cups water, divided ▢1 pound herring fillets ▢2 cups distilled or white wine vinegar ▢1/4 cup sugar ▢1 teaspoon mustard seed ▢2 teaspoons whole allspice ▢2 teaspoons black peppercorns ▢3 bay leaves ▢3 cloves ▢1 lemon, thinly sliced ▢1 medium red onion thinly sliced

Heat 4 cups of water enough to dissolve salt. Let this brine cool to room temperature. When it does, submerge the herring fillets in the brine and refrigerate overnight, or up to 24 hours. Meanwhile, bring the sugar, vinegar, the remaining cup of water and all the spices to a boil. Simmer 5 minutes, then turn off the heat and let this steep until cool.

When the herring have brined, layer them in a glass jar with the sliced lemon and red onion. Divide the spices between your containers if you are using more than one. Pour over the cooled pickling liquid and seal the jars. Wait at least a day before eating. Store in the fridge for up to 1 month.