Gravadlax cured salmon

Gravadlax with mustard and dill sauce is one of Sweden’s most famous dishes. Over the years it has gradually grown in popularity in the UK so that nearly all supermarkets stock it these days. Nonetheless, homemade gravadlax is so good it is worth making the effort to cure your own. The name literally means “grave salmon” and refers to the medieval practice of curing raw fish by salting it and then burying it in sand or with weights on top to force the salt into the fish.

Swedes will often cure a whole fish. To do this, follow the recipe for each fillet, then sandwich them together, skin-side out, to reform the fish. If you prefer a thicker mustard and dill sauce, something more like mayonnaise, add an egg yolk with the mustard. Unless the fish is really fresh, it must be frozen for at least 24 hours before you begin and then left to thaw in the fridge. British people tend to like it less salty than Swedes. If you think it might be too salty for you, reduce the curing time from 48 to 24 hours.

1 kg (2 lb) fresh salmon, filleted and boned, with skin on 100 g (½ cup) caster (superfine) sugar 75 g (½ cup) sea salt flakes (best to weigh, about 2½ oz) 1 tbsp 100 g (4 oz) white peppercorns, crushed dill, including stalks Mustard and dill sauce 4 tbsp 2 tbsp 1 tbsp Swedish mustard (use 3 tbsp Dijon if you can’t get Swedish) caster (superfine) sugar white vinegar, such distilled malt or white wine vinegar salt and freshly ground black pepper 150 ml (½+ cup) vegetable oil such as sunflower, rapeseed or olive oil 3 tbsp fresh dill, finely chopped - minutes

Method

1. Cut some aluminium foil big enough for wrapping up the salmon.

2. Run your fingers over the salmon to feel for any tiny pin bones. If you find any, remove them with tweezers.

3. Mix together the salt, sugar and crushed white peppercorns. Spread half the mixture over the skin side of the salmon.

4. Take a third of the dill and spread out on the aluminium foil. Place the salmon on this, skin side down.

5. Rub the remaining salt mixture over the salmon flesh.

6. Chop the remaining dill and cover the flesh side of the salmon with it.

7. Wrap the salmon up and place it in a dish. Place another dish on top of the salmon and weigh down using, for instance, a few bottles of water.

8. Place in the fridge for 48 hours, turning the salmon over every 12 hours.

9. To make the sauce, put the mustard, sugar, vinegar, salt and pepper into a food processor and mix for 20 seconds. Then, with the motor running, slowly add the oil in a steady stream. Pour the mixture into a serving dish and add chopped dill. (It is better left for a day or so to mature.)

10. When the salmon is cured, unwrap it and drain off the salty, sticky liquid and discard it. Scrape off most of herbs. Slice at an angle of 45°, pulling each slice away from the skin. Serve with the mustard and dill sauce, rye bread and, if desired, some crème fraîche and black lumpfish caviar.

11. Wrap any unused gravadlax in cling film (food wrap) and store in the fridge. Use within a week.

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